MacBook Won't Start or Won't Turn On: Causes and Solutions

In short: plug in the charger, wait a few minutes if your MacBook has an M1 to M6 chip, then hold the power button for ten seconds. If the device stays silent even after a night on the charger, it is usually a hardware fault – in our workshop, most often the logic board. The diagnosis is free: in person in Hamburg-Altona, or by mail from anywhere in Germany via emonis.com, with free DHL shipping both ways.

MacBook showing black screen and won't start
A MacBook that won't start can have various causes

Your MacBook won't turn on anymore, won't boot – or the screen just stays black? This guide walks you through what you can try yourself, step by step, and when it's time to call in a professional. It covers every model: from older Intel MacBooks to the current MacBook Air with the M5 chip and MacBook Pro with the M6 chip. For the iMac, a few things are different.

Water damage? Stop here!

Has your MacBook come into contact with liquid? Then do not follow any of the steps below. Turn the device off immediately, dry the outside and bring or send it to us for cleaning as quickly as possible. Every attempt to power on a water-damaged MacBook can cause short circuits and make the damage worse.

More about water damage repair →

When is it a job for the workshop?

The steps below fix software problems – they can't fix a hardware defect. Typical signs: the MagSafe LED stays dark although the cable and charger work on another device; the fan spins up briefly and the machine shuts right back off; no response even after a night on the charger; the screen stays black although you hear the startup chime; or the MacBook came into contact with liquid. In roughly two out of three of our won't-start repairs, the logic board turned out to be the cause – on Apple Silicon, about eight out of ten.

That's what the free diagnosis is for: bring the device to our workshop in Hamburg-Altona (many customers also come in from the wider Hamburg area – from Norderstedt and Pinneberg all the way to Kiel) or mail it in from anywhere in Germany with free DHL shipping both ways. You get a fixed price and only then decide – with component-level repair, your data normally stays intact.

Step 1: Charge and wait

The most common reason for a "dead" MacBook is a completely drained battery. Plug in the charger and check:

  • MagSafe: the LED on the connector should glow amber or green
  • USB-C: check if the power adapter feels slightly warm
  • Try a different outlet and, if available, a different cable or power adapter

On MacBooks with an M1 to M6 chip, keep in mind: if the battery is deeply discharged, the device often stays completely silent for several minutes after you plug it in, before the charging symbol even appears. That's normal – don't give up too early.

Leave your MacBook charging overnight. A deeply discharged battery can take several hours before the device responds at all. Try again the next morning.

Step 2: Force restart

Press and hold the power button (the Touch ID button on newer models) for at least ten seconds. Wait five seconds, then press it again. This clears a system freeze. On Macs with Apple Silicon (M1–M6), this forced restart replaces the SMC reset of the Intel era – nothing more is needed.

Step 3: Remove all accessories

Disconnect everything: USB drives, external displays, hubs, SD cards. Connected accessories can sometimes prevent startup. Try again with just the charging cable.

Step 4: Reset, depending on your Mac

The next steps depend on which Mac you have:

Older Intel Macs (up to approx. 2020): SMC and PRAM reset

The SMC (System Management Controller) manages your MacBook's power. Resetting it can fix many startup issues:

  1. Shut down the Mac completely
  2. Plug in the charger
  3. Hold Shift + Ctrl + Option (left side) and the power button together for ten seconds
  4. Release all keys and turn the Mac on normally

You can also reset NVRAM/PRAM: Turn on the Mac and immediately hold Cmd (⌘) + Option + P + R for about 20 seconds, then let it boot normally.

Intel MacBooks with a T2 chip (2018–2020) use a different SMC reset: hold right Shift + left Option + left Ctrl for seven seconds, then hold the power button as well for another seven seconds. Release everything, wait a moment, then turn the Mac on.

Apple Silicon (M1–M6) and Macs with a T2 chip: DFU mode

Apple Silicon Macs don't have an SMC – a forced restart (Step 2) replaces the SMC reset. If that doesn't help and your Mac won't respond at all, the firmware may be corrupted, for example by an interrupted update.

In this case, DFU mode (Device Firmware Update) can help. You'll need:

  • A second Mac running macOS 14 Sonoma or later – then the "Revive" works directly in Finder, with no extra software (Apple Configurator) needed
  • A USB-C data cable between the two devices – charge-only cables won't work

Important: DFU mode only works through one specific USB-C port on the left side of the dead MacBook. On most models, it's the rear port (closest to the display). On the 14" MacBook Pro with M4 or M5 (not Pro/Max), the MacBook Air from 2025 and Intel Macs with a T2 chip, it's the front port. Apple lists the DFU port for each model.

Choose "Revive" – this rewrites the firmware without deleting your data. Do not choose "Restore", as that erases everything.

If you don't have a second Mac, it's best to bring the device to a repair specialist – or send it to us from anywhere in Germany via DHL.

Step 5: Safe Mode

Safe Mode starts your Mac with only the bare essentials – this helps rule out software problems.

Intel Macs

Turn on the Mac and immediately hold the Shift key until the Apple logo appears.

Apple Silicon Macs (M1–M6)

Shut down the Mac. Press and hold the power button until you see "Loading startup options". Select your startup disk, then hold Shift and click "Continue in Safe Mode".

If the Mac starts in Safe Mode, the problem was likely software-related. Restart normally – it often works again after that.

Step 6: Reinstall macOS (without losing data)

Boot into Recovery Mode:

  • On Intel Macs, hold Cmd + R while you turn the Mac on
  • On Apple Silicon, hold the power button → Options → Continue

There you can first run First Aid in Disk Utility to check the disk. Then choose "Reinstall macOS". This only replaces system files – your data stays intact.

Warning: Don't confuse "Reinstall macOS" with "Erase Mac" – that would delete all your data.

MacBook won't start: key combinations at a glance

Intel Macs

  • Force restart: hold the power button for ten seconds
  • SMC reset: Shift + Ctrl + Option (left side) + power button, ten seconds
  • NVRAM reset: Cmd + Option + P + R at startup, hold for 20 seconds
  • Safe Mode: hold Shift at startup
  • Recovery: hold Cmd + R at startup
  • Startup Manager: hold Option (⌥) at startup
  • Apple Diagnostics: hold D at startup

Apple Silicon (M1–M6)

  • Force restart: hold the power button for ten seconds – replaces the SMC reset
  • Startup options & Recovery: press and hold the power button until "Loading startup options" appears
  • Safe Mode: in the startup options, select the startup disk while holding Shift
  • Apple Diagnostics: in the startup options, press Cmd + D
  • NVRAM reset: not needed – it resets itself automatically when required
  • DFU mode: press the power button briefly, then immediately hold right Shift + left Option + left Ctrl + power button for about ten seconds, then release the three keys but keep holding the power button until the second Mac shows the DFU window (requires a second Mac, see Step 4)

MacBook won't boot: stuck on the Apple logo or progress bar?

If the Apple logo appears when you turn the device on but the progress bar freezes – or the machine keeps starting over – your Mac has found its startup volume but can't get through the boot process. That's different from a completely "dead" device, and it often has a software cause:

  • Wait first: Right after a macOS update, the progress bar can sit still for 30 to 60 minutes while everything keeps working in the background. Never interrupt an update in progress.
  • Force a restart (Step 2) and then boot into Safe Mode (Step 5) – macOS checks the startup volume along the way.
  • Run First Aid in Disk Utility: In Recovery (Step 6), check and repair the startup volume.
  • Reinstall macOS: This only replaces system files, so your data stays intact.

If startup still hangs at the same point every time, or First Aid reports errors it can't repair, that points to the SSD or its controller circuitry on the logic board – from here, the free diagnosis takes over.

Mac shows a question mark folder at startup

Flashing question mark folder on MacBook display
A flashing folder with a question mark means no bootable system was found

If a flashing folder with a question mark appears instead of the Apple logo when you turn on your Mac, it can't find its startup volume. This symbol mostly appears on Intel Macs – when the startup volume is damaged, MacBooks with M1–M6 usually go straight to the startup options or Recovery instead. The causes range from software to hardware problems:

Software causes

  • Wrong startup volume selected: hold the Option key (⌥) while turning the Mac on to open Startup Manager, then select the correct drive
  • Corrupted file system: boot into Recovery Mode and run "First Aid" in Disk Utility
  • NVRAM error: reset it by holding Cmd + Option + P + R for 20 seconds at startup
  • Damaged macOS installation: reinstall macOS in Recovery Mode (see Step 6)

Hardware causes

  • If the drive doesn't show up in Disk Utility at all, the SSD or hard drive is physically damaged
  • The MacBook Pro 13" 2012 (A1278) has a known issue with the HDD cable (part 821-1480-A), often misdiagnosed as a logic board defect
  • A storage controller failure on the logic board can prevent access to the SSD
  • On MacBooks with Apple Silicon (M1–M6), the SSD is soldered to the board – if the storage or its power circuitry fails, the only way to your data is a board-level repair

If software solutions don't help and the drive isn't recognized, it's a hardware defect. Request a free diagnosis →

"A critical software update is required": what to do

MacBook Pro A1707 with critical software update problem
MacBook Pro A1707, frequently affected by the critical software update error

Important: Do not keep turning the Mac off and on. Each failed startup attempt can further damage firmware data.

This message appears when a firmware or macOS update couldn't be completed, for example due to an interrupted update, corrupted T2/Apple Silicon firmware, or hardware problems like corrosion on the logic board.

Possible workaround: Safe Mode

  1. Start the MacBook and hold the Shift key (Safe Mode)
  2. Log in to your user account
  3. Install a major macOS update (e.g. from Catalina to Big Sur, or the latest version)

After that, the message may disappear and the Mac may boot normally again.

Note: In most cases, the error is caused by a hardware defect on the logic board, not by software. The usual fix is to replace the entire board. We repair only the defective component, and your data stays in place. More about logic board repair →

MacBook turns on, but the screen stays black?

The most common case behind the phrase "black screen": the MacBook seems like it won't turn on – but it's actually running. The fan spins, the case gets warm or the keyboard backlight comes on – there's just no picture:

  • Press F2 or fn+F2 several times to check the brightness
  • Connect an external monitor – if it shows a picture, the internal display or its cable is faulty
  • Try the flashlight test: shine a light onto the screen at an angle. If you can faintly see outlines, only the backlight is broken

By the way: a MacBook Air with M1–M5 has no fan at all. Watch for the keyboard backlight, the startup chime, or warmth on the case instead.

Display problems usually point to a hardware defect. More about display repair →

Why won't my MacBook start? What's different on M1 to M6

Since Apple switched to its own chips (M1 in 2020 up to the current M6), startup problems have changed too:

  • No more SMC or NVRAM reset: the classic reset rituals of the Intel era are gone. A forced restart (hold the power button for ten seconds) covers everything.
  • Firmware damage after updates: if a macOS update is interrupted – for example, by a dead battery – the Mac may no longer start at all. The fix is DFU mode (Step 4); a "Revive" keeps your data intact.
  • SSD and RAM are soldered: your data sits encrypted on the logic board. If the MacBook won't start because of a board fault, data recovery is only possible through a targeted logic board repair – simply removing the SSD like in the old days is no longer an option.
  • This applies to the newest devices too: the MacBook Air M5 and MacBook Pro with M5 Pro and M5 Max (2026) behave identically to M1–M4 at startup – every step in this guide applies.

MacBook Pro or MacBook Air won't turn on anymore?

The steps above apply to both lines – but the clues that tell you where the fault lies differ by model.

MacBook Pro won't turn on: read the MagSafe LED and the fan

On the 14" and 16" MacBook Pro (2021 and later), the MagSafe LED is your most useful diagnostic tool: if it stays completely dark with the charger connected, test the cable and charger on another device first – if it still won't light up, power isn't reaching the logic board. Amber means the battery may simply have been deeply discharged (Step 1: charge and wait). If the fan spins up briefly and the machine shuts right back off, that points to a power-delivery fault on the logic board. And if the screen stays black although you hear the startup chime, head back up to the "MacBook turns on, but the screen stays black?" section.

MacBook Air won't turn on: the silent one

The MacBook Air with an Apple chip has no fan – so you can't hear whether it's alive at all. Watch for the startup chime, the keyboard backlight and warmth on the case instead, and try the flashlight test from the section above. On the Air with M2 (2022) or later, the MagSafe LED helps just as it does on the Pro. The M1 Air charges via USB-C only – test it with a different cable and charger. If the Air no longer starts after an interrupted macOS update, DFU mode (Step 4) is the way back.

If the device also won't charge, the guide MacBook Pro or Air won't charge takes over from here.

iMac won't start: how it differs from the MacBook

The iMac has no battery, so the focus is on the power supply:

  • Check the power cable at both ends (it sits looser than you'd think) and try a different outlet – without a power strip
  • After that, the same steps as for the MacBook apply: forced restart, Safe Mode, Recovery – on iMacs with Apple Silicon they're identical
  • If an Intel iMac stays completely black and silent, our workshop found the logic board to be the cause more often than the internal power supply – both are repairable faults

More about iMac repair →

Nothing worked?

If none of these steps helped, there's likely a hardware defect – on the logic board, in the power supply or in another component.

We offer a free diagnosis, even if you decide against the repair. You'll know exactly what's broken and what it would cost – for an honest breakdown of all prices, see What does a MacBook repair cost?

Not in Hamburg? No problem – you can mail in your MacBook from anywhere in Germany via DHL. Services and process at a glance: mail-in MacBook repair on emonis.

Request a free diagnosis →

Our services for MacBooks that won't start

What actually turns out to be broken: numbers from our workshop

From our won't-start repairs: in roughly two out of three cases the logic board was the cause – on Apple Silicon, about eight out of ten. Battery, SSD (including data recovery), display and firmware account for the rest. Software causes barely appear in these numbers, because the steps above usually solve them.

As for timing: a repair usually takes 3–6 working days in the workshop, 1–3 of them for the free diagnosis up to the quote – details in How long does a MacBook repair take?

Frequently asked questions

What does it cost to repair a MacBook that won't start?

The free diagnosis settles that first: you receive a fixed quote and only then decide – if you decide against the repair, it costs you nothing. As a rough guide: the most common cause is a logic board fault, and that repair starts at €100. All prices by repair type, and when a repair is still worth it: What does a MacBook repair cost?

Can my data still be recovered?

In most cases, yes. On Apple Silicon and most Intel models from 2016 on, the SSD is soldered to the logic board – if we repair the board at component level, your system and data stay in place. If the board can't be repaired for good, we can usually get it running long enough to back up your data.

My Mac shows a folder with a question mark. What does that mean?

A flashing question mark folder means no bootable system was found. Boot into Recovery Mode (Cmd + R on Intel, hold the power button on Apple Silicon) and check the disk with Disk Utility. Reinstalling macOS usually fixes this. On older MacBook Pro models (especially the A1278 from 2012), a faulty HDD cable (part 821-1480-A) can also be the cause.

Can water damage cause a MacBook not to start?

Yes, it's one of the most common causes. Turn the device off immediately and do not try to power it on again. The sooner it gets professional cleaning, the better the chances. Learn more →

Can I send my MacBook by mail?

Yes. We offer Germany-wide shipping with DHL. After the free diagnosis, you'll receive a quote. If you approve it, we repair the MacBook and ship it back insured (DHL liability up to €500 per parcel). Shipping service details →

Is there a warranty on repairs?

Yes, all our repairs come with a 12-month warranty.

Is the MacBook Pro 13" 2012 A1278 particularly prone to startup problems?

Yes. This model has a known issue with the HDD cable (part number 821-1480-A), which frequently fails and causes startup problems that are often misdiagnosed as a logic board defect. Replacing the cable is significantly cheaper than a logic board repair.

Why won't my MacBook with an M1 to M6 chip start?

The most common causes on Apple Silicon: a deeply discharged battery (wait several minutes after plugging in), corrupted firmware after an interrupted update (fixable via DFU mode), or a logic board fault. There's no longer an SMC or NVRAM reset as on Intel Macs – a forced restart is all it takes.

iMac won't start – what should I check?

Since the iMac has no battery, check the power cable and outlet first. After that, the same steps as for the MacBook apply. If an Intel iMac stays completely silent, the logic board is more often the cause than the internal power supply – both are repairable.

Mac shows "A critical software update is required": what should I do?

Don't keep turning the Mac off and on. Try booting into Safe Mode (hold the Shift key at startup) and installing a macOS update. If that doesn't help, it's usually a hardware defect on the logic board that requires professional repair.

MacBook Pro won't start – what to do?

Test the charger and cable on another device, then read the MagSafe LED. If it stays dark, power isn't reaching the logic board. Amber means the battery may simply have been deeply discharged – charge and wait. Then hold the power button for ten seconds and disconnect all accessories. If the fan spins up briefly and the machine shuts right back off, that points to the power delivery on the logic board – a job for the free diagnosis, in the workshop or by mail-in.

MacBook won't turn on but it's charging – what's the cause?

If the charging LED lights up or the adapter gets warm, power is getting through. On M1 to M6 models, the battery is then often just deeply discharged: leave it on the charger for several minutes, overnight if in doubt, then hold the power button for ten seconds. If the fan runs or the keyboard backlight comes on but the screen stays black, there's just no picture: turn up the brightness, connect an external monitor and try the flashlight test – usually the display or its backlight is faulty. If the machine stays completely silent even though it's charging, the firmware (DFU mode) or the logic board is the more likely cause – the free diagnosis settles both.

MacBook won't start: which key combination helps?

Intel Macs: hold the power button for ten seconds (force restart), Shift + Ctrl + Option + power button for ten seconds (SMC reset), Cmd + Option + P + R at startup for 20 seconds (NVRAM reset), Shift at startup (Safe Mode), Cmd + R (Recovery). Apple Silicon (M1–M6): holding the power button for ten seconds replaces the SMC reset. For Recovery and Safe Mode, keep holding it until "Loading startup options" appears (for Safe Mode, select the startup disk while holding Shift). There is no NVRAM reset. The full overview is in the guide above – if no combination helps, it's time for the free diagnosis.

MacBook won't boot or is stuck on the Apple logo – what to do?

Right after a macOS update, the progress bar can sit still for 30 to 60 minutes – wait first, and never interrupt an update in progress. Then force a restart, boot into Safe Mode, and check the startup volume with First Aid in Recovery. If needed, reinstall macOS – your data stays intact. If startup always hangs at the same point, that points to the SSD or the logic board – the free diagnosis settles it.

MacBook Air won't start anymore – battery or logic board?

The Air with an Apple chip has no fan, so watch for the startup chime, keyboard backlight and warmth on the case, and try the flashlight test. A deeply discharged battery comes back after a few minutes to a few hours on the charger. On the Air with M2 or later, the MagSafe LED shows it; the M1 Air charges via USB-C only, so test another cable and charger. If the Air stays silent even after a night on the charger, the battery alone is rarely the reason. On Apple Silicon, the logic board was the cause in about eight out of ten of our won't-start repairs, and the battery in fewer than one in ten. On Intel models, it was roughly six out of ten versus two out of ten. The free diagnosis tells you which it is – in Hamburg or by mail-in.